Basic installation of rubber with sponge:

1. Apply thin coat of rubber glue or rubber cement to blade and sponge, let tack dry.

2. Apply the sheet starting at the handle and lay sheet on blade.

3. Use a rolling pin, paint can, or a full beer can, to roll rubber to blade with moderate pressure.

4. Cut with sharp hair cutting, or rubber scissors, face sponge up and follow the blade, apply and cut ONLY one sheet at a time.

Custom rubber and sponge:

By combining different types and thickness of sponge with different rubber sheets, players can get a desired effect out of a racket covering.

1. Generally, thinner sponge = more control. Thinner sponge will allow for more control, better feel for the ball, and will be more forgiving when a player mishandles incoming spin. Thinner sponge on a pip rubber will provide excellent control and increased ability to chop and block, (example 802 will chop and block with 1.5, but will do it with much more control with 1.0). For stepping up to an attacking rubber like 729fx or 2000 some players my find that a much easier transition by going with a 1.5, instead of the faster and harder to control 2.0.
   
2. Thicker sponge generally will generate more spin, If a player desires more speed and spin a thicker sponge is a good place to start. Even Pips-out will generate significantly more spin with thicker sponge.
   
3. It is more important for intermediate players to focus on control. At intermediate levels consistency is king, at intermediate levels if you block 3 consecutive attack shots during a point, you will win that point 80+% of the time.
   
4. NO SPONGE (also called OX or orthodox). Popular among Long-Pip players, and Hard Bat players, gluing your Pips-out rubber directly to your blade will give superior control. If used for a combination of defense and close to table attack, a long-pip player can generate devastating off speed hits and blocks. Short and medium pips also can be glued right to the blade, 799,802 and 563 are tremendous hitting and chopping rubber when used without sponge.

Custom glue job:

First the sponge:

1. Apply glue to sponge and blade, let tack dry.
2. Place the sponge on the blade starting at the handle.
3. Roll on with any clean cylindrical object.
4. Cut sponge to shape of blade with sharp hair cutting shears, follow curve of blade when cutting, cut sponge with the glued back of sponge facing you.

Next the rubber sheet:

1. Apply a layer of glue to the sponge, and back of the rubber sheet, do not fill between the pips on inverted rubbers, apply only to the ends of the pips by lightly brushing over them, let sponge and rubber tack dry.
2. Apply rubber sheet starting at handle, roll on with any clean cylindrical object.
3. Cut rubber following the curve of the blade with sharp hair cutting scissors, cut rubber with the back of the rubber sheet facing you.

APPLY AND CUT ONLY ONE SHEET AT A TIME.

***Many products work to adhere rubber to sponge, Monkey grip rubber cement works great, as well as, rubber adhesive that you get from the hardware store. My personal favorite is Best Test One Coat Rubber Cement. I also purchase the Bestine solvent/thinner to thin the cement out a bit, (a few drops of thinner). Pour some Best Test One Coat in a clean jar or small paint can from the hardware store, use a cheap brush to apply the glue. Don’t ever glue with ANY glue without good ventilation. Best Test One Coat will keep just fine in a glass jar or small paint can, leave the brush in the jar or can for re-use. If Best Test One Coat sits too long you may need to put in a little more thinner, (couple drops at a time). Best Test One Coat will give a more dynamic, longer lasting bond than any other cement I have tried.

Choosing a sponge thickness that compliments your style will give you a better feel for the ball with more enjoyment and consistency from your game.